Autotesting
What is autotesting?
The aim of autotesting is to drive a car around a set of markers/pylons, adhering to a set route in as short a time as possible. The competitor with the lowest penalty is the winner. The route is defined with a Diagram, and involves competitors using both forwards and reverse gears. They are required to stop astride lines, park in 'garages' and perform 'nose throws' and 'handbrake turns', and penalties are given for striking markers (known as pylons) or not performing the manoeuvres correctly. An example test diagram is given below
When done to perfection, the car almost glides around the tests, stopping only for fractions of a second, and dramatically changing direction from forwards to reverse whilst on the move.
Autotesting teaches you basic car skills and control. Many famous rally drivers started out in autotesting to learn car control including Colin McRae and Kris Meeke.
Speeds are not that high. It is unusual if a test requires a competitor to use second gear, so with such low speeds it is also an inherently safe sport. The low risk results in low costs, there being no need for helmets. fireproof clothing and roll cages which are so often minimum requirements in other branches of the sport. Event entry fees vary from club to club but usually aren’t any higher than £25.
The major point of autotesting is that it is accessible to everyone. A completely standard saloon may not be the most competitive weapon when fielded against the machines seen on National championship events in the saloon car classes, but in a smaller regional or club autotest, people can have a go in their own road car. Be warned though, it is not as easy as it may look.
Depending on which club is running the event the cars are split into classes. This enables the results to work fairly where some cars may not be as competitive as others.
Weight as in all forms of motorsport is an enemy. A lighter car will require less power to accelerate it, less braking effort to stop it and less cornering forces to turn it or alternatively, it will take less time and space to perform any of these tasks. There is no need to use expensive materials, severe weight reduction being achieved through removing excess trim, seats, fittings and metal. Perspex replacing glass windows is doubly effective as it lowers the centre of gravity, whilst replacing steel panels with aluminium or GRP is also relatively cheap, bonnets and boots being available for a lot of saloons.
Brakes similarly, if in good order, will remain so. The crucial element in the braking system is the handbrake. This is used to promote slides all the time, and must be crisp and sharp in its operation. Because it is originally to stop the car rolling off down hills when parked. the rigours of trying to lock the rear wheels as the car travels along is often too much for the average linkage.
The best way to learn is; using the Diagram provided, walk the tests trying to memo rise it as you go along. The best check of whether you have learnt the test is to walk it without needing to refer to the Diagram. When you start in the sport it may take three or even four attempts to learn a test, so allow yourself enough time to do this. When learning routes between tests, make sure then that you are ready to walk as soon as the last car finishes. As you gain experience, you become more familiar with the manoeuvres, and are able to learn the tests.
Manovers
When driving on the tests you will come across many different manoeuvres but the key ones are: -
1. Handbrake turn.
2. Reverse flick.
3. Nose throws.
4. Stop astride lines.
All the manoeuvres are performed using the normal vehicle controls of throttle, clutch and brake. However the additional use of the handbrake allows the vehicle to be slid more. Before trying anything out, you should check that your handbrake operates effectively. The handbrake should be able to lock both wheels when driving on a dry surface at moderate revs in second gear. (NB don't forget to dip the clutch in a rear wheel drive car). Rear wheel drive cars may in addition be fitted with a torque-biasing differential (Limited Slip Differential) to assist with turning the car. The need to maintain momentum whilst performing manoeuvres will always be stressed.
180 degree turn around a pylon
This will require a handbrake turn.
Front Wheel Drive (FWD)Brake in a straight line on approach to pylon. When you are beside the pylon stop braking and apply as much lock as quickly as possible in order to come as close to the pylon as possible. When full lock has been engaged pull on the handbrake hard. This will lock the rear wheels. With the front wheels turning and pulling the car round the pylon, you need to maintain forward motion by pushing harder on the throttle to counteract the fact that you have put on the brakes. With the rear wheels locked, the tail of the car will swing out away from the pylon. The handbrake should be released once the tail of the car has started to slide, as most saloons will continue to slide once set in motion. There will always be a limit of traction available, so the length of time that the handbrake is applied has to be judged carefully to the available traction and engine power. There is no need to use the clutch, and spinning the wheels means you have not made the best use of the available traction. The handbrake should be re-applied as necessary, but once the car has completed about 160 degrees of turn should not be applied again. Instead power should be applied to accelerate away from the manoeuvre and on to the next Dart of test.
RWD Approach. As for any turn, braking in a straight line to an appropriate speed. Just before the pylon start applying 1/4 to 1/2 a turn of lock as quickly as possible. When at desired lock, depress the clutch and pull on the handbrake hard until the rear wheels are locked. This should take about one second and at this point you should be about parallel with the pylon, i.e. the turn in and handbrake are performed before you actually reach the pylon. Release the clutch and apply power immediately to spin the rear wheels. The net effect of this is that the rear of the car will start to slide out away from the pylon roughly in a radius centred on the front wheel nearest the pylon. Varying the throttle controls the slide. More power will make the wheels spin more, thereby gripping less and the rear of the car will slide around more quickly, tightening the turn performed by the car. If too much power is applied, the tail of the car will slide away too much and cause the car to spin. Less power allows the rear wheels to grip a bit more so the rear of the car slides less far and the radius of the turn is wider. If too little power is applied (or available!) the rear wheels will grip and try to drive the car in a straight line, i.e. severe understeer. When the car has completed about 160 degrees of turn reduce the power applied to allow the rear wheels to grip, before reapplying power to accelerate away from the manoeuvre. As with FWD a compromise has to be reached between the available traction and the power applied, particularly when pulling out of the turn and accelerating away.
If you apply full lock on a RWD during a 180 or 360 the chances are you will stall the forward motion and essentially do a brake stand instead.
You can see in the video how much (or how little) lock is used.
360 degree turn (circle)
The techniques used are an extension of those for the 180-degree turn.
FWD Depending on the power and weight of the car, it may not be possible to hold onto the handbrake for the complete turn, and instead the 360 should be treated as two 180 turns.
RWD. Once a controlled slide has been achieved, it is a matter of maintaining the balance of the car. Done correctly, the front inside wheel will remain almost stationary whilst the rest of the car pivots around it.
Tail Throw
Tests will often ask you to turn the car around "on the move" which is dramatic and enjoyable. The more speed you can build up, the quicker the flick.
FWD - Approaching the flick accelerating hard in first gear you should wind on lock right hand down as fast as possible while appling the handbrake. Then as the rear of the car slides round change gear into reverse and when the car has completed the flick, drop the clutch and straighten your wheels. There should be no need to touch the brakes. Accelerate in reverse gear.
RWD - Approaching the flick accelerating hard in first gear you should wind on lock right hand down as fast as possible while appling the handbrake. Then as the rear of the car slides round change gear into reverse and when the car has completed the flick, drop the clutch and straighten your wheels. There should be no need to touch the brakes. Accelerate in reverse gear.
Nose-Throw
FWD - Approaching the flick accelerating hard in reverse gear you should wind on lock right hand down as fast as possible dabbing the throttle as you do this. Then as the front of the car slides round change gear into first and when the car has completed about 120 degrees of turn, drop the clutch and apply the power hard. There should be no need to touch the brakes, and then only touch the handbrake if you are not going quickly enough.
RWD - Again approach accelerating hard in reverse gear, and start to wind on lock right hand down. You should then back off the throttle as sharply as possible. This slows the rear wheels and with full lock on the front end, with some angle of turn to the direction of travel, the front end slides round. When more than 90 degrees of turn have occurred, declutch and change into first gear and drop the clutch sharply and accelerate hard.
Types of autotests
There is a variety of clubs available who cater for autotesting. These clubs can be joined by anyone but have different levels of difficulty to watch out for. A few are detailed below in which I recommend for beginner to expect however there are more clubs out there (check ANICC website). To enter into an event you generally need to be a member of at least one club registered with ANICC. To be counted in the championship for each club you would need to be a member of that club.
TSCC
Autotests are all forwards motion driving and are advisable for beginners. Only 180 and 360 turns are used and no reversing or flicks are needed. You will tend to see more standard road cars at this event instead of modified cars, however modified cars are not excluded. Tests are typically around 60 seconds long. Typical Entry fee : £10-15 per event.
Example:
MGCC
A more intermediate/expert type events although classes for beginners are available and are just as much fun for beginners as experts. These tests will include all types of manover but will be mostly forwards with a few throws and reversing. Any car can enter and would be competitive. Tests are generally 60-90 seconds long. Typical Entry fee : 17-20 per event
Example:
ADC
A club more aimed at experts with modified cars. Classes for beginners and semi-experts are available. Modified cars are recommended to compete but not neccessary. Tests include all manovers but each manover will be used more frequently than the other clubs mentioned .Tests would be typically 60 seconds long.
Example:
Websites
A few websites to get you started in autotesting where you can find details on events and contacts.
TSCC – TSCCNI Home Page
PEAK PERFORMANCE - Home
MGCC – www.mgcculstercentre.org.uk - Home
ADC – // Autotest Driver Club (NI) // by intramega.com
ANICC - Association of Northern Ireland Car Clubs
Facebook : www.facebook.com/stopastride
What is autotesting?
The aim of autotesting is to drive a car around a set of markers/pylons, adhering to a set route in as short a time as possible. The competitor with the lowest penalty is the winner. The route is defined with a Diagram, and involves competitors using both forwards and reverse gears. They are required to stop astride lines, park in 'garages' and perform 'nose throws' and 'handbrake turns', and penalties are given for striking markers (known as pylons) or not performing the manoeuvres correctly. An example test diagram is given below
When done to perfection, the car almost glides around the tests, stopping only for fractions of a second, and dramatically changing direction from forwards to reverse whilst on the move.
Autotesting teaches you basic car skills and control. Many famous rally drivers started out in autotesting to learn car control including Colin McRae and Kris Meeke.
Speeds are not that high. It is unusual if a test requires a competitor to use second gear, so with such low speeds it is also an inherently safe sport. The low risk results in low costs, there being no need for helmets. fireproof clothing and roll cages which are so often minimum requirements in other branches of the sport. Event entry fees vary from club to club but usually aren’t any higher than £25.
The major point of autotesting is that it is accessible to everyone. A completely standard saloon may not be the most competitive weapon when fielded against the machines seen on National championship events in the saloon car classes, but in a smaller regional or club autotest, people can have a go in their own road car. Be warned though, it is not as easy as it may look.
Depending on which club is running the event the cars are split into classes. This enables the results to work fairly where some cars may not be as competitive as others.
Weight as in all forms of motorsport is an enemy. A lighter car will require less power to accelerate it, less braking effort to stop it and less cornering forces to turn it or alternatively, it will take less time and space to perform any of these tasks. There is no need to use expensive materials, severe weight reduction being achieved through removing excess trim, seats, fittings and metal. Perspex replacing glass windows is doubly effective as it lowers the centre of gravity, whilst replacing steel panels with aluminium or GRP is also relatively cheap, bonnets and boots being available for a lot of saloons.
Brakes similarly, if in good order, will remain so. The crucial element in the braking system is the handbrake. This is used to promote slides all the time, and must be crisp and sharp in its operation. Because it is originally to stop the car rolling off down hills when parked. the rigours of trying to lock the rear wheels as the car travels along is often too much for the average linkage.
The best way to learn is; using the Diagram provided, walk the tests trying to memo rise it as you go along. The best check of whether you have learnt the test is to walk it without needing to refer to the Diagram. When you start in the sport it may take three or even four attempts to learn a test, so allow yourself enough time to do this. When learning routes between tests, make sure then that you are ready to walk as soon as the last car finishes. As you gain experience, you become more familiar with the manoeuvres, and are able to learn the tests.
Manovers
When driving on the tests you will come across many different manoeuvres but the key ones are: -
1. Handbrake turn.
2. Reverse flick.
3. Nose throws.
4. Stop astride lines.
All the manoeuvres are performed using the normal vehicle controls of throttle, clutch and brake. However the additional use of the handbrake allows the vehicle to be slid more. Before trying anything out, you should check that your handbrake operates effectively. The handbrake should be able to lock both wheels when driving on a dry surface at moderate revs in second gear. (NB don't forget to dip the clutch in a rear wheel drive car). Rear wheel drive cars may in addition be fitted with a torque-biasing differential (Limited Slip Differential) to assist with turning the car. The need to maintain momentum whilst performing manoeuvres will always be stressed.
180 degree turn around a pylon
This will require a handbrake turn.
Front Wheel Drive (FWD)Brake in a straight line on approach to pylon. When you are beside the pylon stop braking and apply as much lock as quickly as possible in order to come as close to the pylon as possible. When full lock has been engaged pull on the handbrake hard. This will lock the rear wheels. With the front wheels turning and pulling the car round the pylon, you need to maintain forward motion by pushing harder on the throttle to counteract the fact that you have put on the brakes. With the rear wheels locked, the tail of the car will swing out away from the pylon. The handbrake should be released once the tail of the car has started to slide, as most saloons will continue to slide once set in motion. There will always be a limit of traction available, so the length of time that the handbrake is applied has to be judged carefully to the available traction and engine power. There is no need to use the clutch, and spinning the wheels means you have not made the best use of the available traction. The handbrake should be re-applied as necessary, but once the car has completed about 160 degrees of turn should not be applied again. Instead power should be applied to accelerate away from the manoeuvre and on to the next Dart of test.
RWD Approach. As for any turn, braking in a straight line to an appropriate speed. Just before the pylon start applying 1/4 to 1/2 a turn of lock as quickly as possible. When at desired lock, depress the clutch and pull on the handbrake hard until the rear wheels are locked. This should take about one second and at this point you should be about parallel with the pylon, i.e. the turn in and handbrake are performed before you actually reach the pylon. Release the clutch and apply power immediately to spin the rear wheels. The net effect of this is that the rear of the car will start to slide out away from the pylon roughly in a radius centred on the front wheel nearest the pylon. Varying the throttle controls the slide. More power will make the wheels spin more, thereby gripping less and the rear of the car will slide around more quickly, tightening the turn performed by the car. If too much power is applied, the tail of the car will slide away too much and cause the car to spin. Less power allows the rear wheels to grip a bit more so the rear of the car slides less far and the radius of the turn is wider. If too little power is applied (or available!) the rear wheels will grip and try to drive the car in a straight line, i.e. severe understeer. When the car has completed about 160 degrees of turn reduce the power applied to allow the rear wheels to grip, before reapplying power to accelerate away from the manoeuvre. As with FWD a compromise has to be reached between the available traction and the power applied, particularly when pulling out of the turn and accelerating away.
If you apply full lock on a RWD during a 180 or 360 the chances are you will stall the forward motion and essentially do a brake stand instead.
You can see in the video how much (or how little) lock is used.
360 degree turn (circle)
The techniques used are an extension of those for the 180-degree turn.
FWD Depending on the power and weight of the car, it may not be possible to hold onto the handbrake for the complete turn, and instead the 360 should be treated as two 180 turns.
RWD. Once a controlled slide has been achieved, it is a matter of maintaining the balance of the car. Done correctly, the front inside wheel will remain almost stationary whilst the rest of the car pivots around it.
Tail Throw
Tests will often ask you to turn the car around "on the move" which is dramatic and enjoyable. The more speed you can build up, the quicker the flick.
FWD - Approaching the flick accelerating hard in first gear you should wind on lock right hand down as fast as possible while appling the handbrake. Then as the rear of the car slides round change gear into reverse and when the car has completed the flick, drop the clutch and straighten your wheels. There should be no need to touch the brakes. Accelerate in reverse gear.
RWD - Approaching the flick accelerating hard in first gear you should wind on lock right hand down as fast as possible while appling the handbrake. Then as the rear of the car slides round change gear into reverse and when the car has completed the flick, drop the clutch and straighten your wheels. There should be no need to touch the brakes. Accelerate in reverse gear.
Nose-Throw
FWD - Approaching the flick accelerating hard in reverse gear you should wind on lock right hand down as fast as possible dabbing the throttle as you do this. Then as the front of the car slides round change gear into first and when the car has completed about 120 degrees of turn, drop the clutch and apply the power hard. There should be no need to touch the brakes, and then only touch the handbrake if you are not going quickly enough.
RWD - Again approach accelerating hard in reverse gear, and start to wind on lock right hand down. You should then back off the throttle as sharply as possible. This slows the rear wheels and with full lock on the front end, with some angle of turn to the direction of travel, the front end slides round. When more than 90 degrees of turn have occurred, declutch and change into first gear and drop the clutch sharply and accelerate hard.
Types of autotests
There is a variety of clubs available who cater for autotesting. These clubs can be joined by anyone but have different levels of difficulty to watch out for. A few are detailed below in which I recommend for beginner to expect however there are more clubs out there (check ANICC website). To enter into an event you generally need to be a member of at least one club registered with ANICC. To be counted in the championship for each club you would need to be a member of that club.
TSCC
Autotests are all forwards motion driving and are advisable for beginners. Only 180 and 360 turns are used and no reversing or flicks are needed. You will tend to see more standard road cars at this event instead of modified cars, however modified cars are not excluded. Tests are typically around 60 seconds long. Typical Entry fee : £10-15 per event.
Example:
MGCC
A more intermediate/expert type events although classes for beginners are available and are just as much fun for beginners as experts. These tests will include all types of manover but will be mostly forwards with a few throws and reversing. Any car can enter and would be competitive. Tests are generally 60-90 seconds long. Typical Entry fee : 17-20 per event
Example:
ADC
A club more aimed at experts with modified cars. Classes for beginners and semi-experts are available. Modified cars are recommended to compete but not neccessary. Tests include all manovers but each manover will be used more frequently than the other clubs mentioned .Tests would be typically 60 seconds long.
Example:
Websites
A few websites to get you started in autotesting where you can find details on events and contacts.
TSCC – TSCCNI Home Page
PEAK PERFORMANCE - Home
MGCC – www.mgcculstercentre.org.uk - Home
ADC – // Autotest Driver Club (NI) // by intramega.com
ANICC - Association of Northern Ireland Car Clubs
Facebook : www.facebook.com/stopastride
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