My Volvo is acting the maggot and is down on power, absolutely zero pull from 40mph upwards. No warnings on the dash but I *think* it's due an Eolys top up as it's never been done in the time I've had it but apparently I need Volvo Diagnostics to register the read the level and register a refill if required.
Anyone local with Volvo Diagnostics?
- Thread starter _James_
- Start date
NI_Volvo_Nut
RMS Regular
You don't need Volvo diagnostics, just a good one, like snap on or high spec Launch. Couple of guys I know in Bangor could do this.
NI_Volvo_Nut
RMS Regular
Drop me a pm with a price please.
- Thread Starter
- #6
Cheers Paul, I might take you up on that offer.
I put my cheapy scan tool on it last night and it came up with a ECM software fault, Alternator fault and Cam position sensor fault, cleared them and drove it into work thismorning and it drove like ***** but when I plugged it back in, no faults.
usually get 400miles to a tank of fuel, currently need to fill up after 300miles so I assume I have a fuel leak!
NI_Volvo_Nut
RMS Regular
If its running bad it will use more fuel.
You've got the 1.6 HDipos if I remember right?
Could potentially be an EGR fault or turbo fault, have had both issues with no fault codes on a Focus and a V40.
You've got the 1.6 HDipos if I remember right?
Could potentially be an EGR fault or turbo fault, have had both issues with no fault codes on a Focus and a V40.
- Thread Starter
- #8
I'd have assumed if it was overfueling, the exhaust fumes with be a telltale.
NI_Volvo_Nut
RMS Regular
Not overfuelling as such, your driving it harder due to it running bad (and probably don't realise). The position of the throttle directly relates to the amount it drinks
- Thread Starter
- #10
Ah, I might just grab one of those sensors just incase as I don't think they are expensive but a bit confused that the fault code didn't reactivate
Is there a simple way to test to egr or turbo?
Is there a simple way to test to egr or turbo?
- Thread Starter
- #12
You have zero luck with cars man, I don't know how you have the heart for it. At this rate it'd be cheaper to get taxis
I've never been so close to just leasing a new cheap as possible pos than I am now, I feckin hate cars!
oh but I do have a nice mk6 Golf courtesy car….but I’d rather drive a broken Volvo than a Golf!
- Thread Starter
- #13
Well hopefully the fault codes were a bit of a red herring! I got an hour today to look at the Volvo and although I'd already did the touch test after driving to see if any of the wheels felt overly warm after driving and everything felt fine, I thought it would be a good idea to make sure all the wheels were spinning freely before getting stuck into the engine bay and my instincts seemed on point as my p/s rear brake caliper is seized solid.
I'll get one ordered on Monday along with a flexi pipe as the last time I did a rear caliper on this car, the brass fitting for the flexi got chewed the **** up!
I'll get one ordered on Monday along with a flexi pipe as the last time I did a rear caliper on this car, the brass fitting for the flexi got chewed the **** up!
- Thread Starter
- #15
Well spent a couple of hours on this heap of dung today as there was a bit of a dry spell.
Found a hardened, blocked pipe going from the DPF to a little valve/controller thing, so I replaced it with a bit of fuel pipe I had in the shed and with it fitted the car wouldnt pull your **** straight until it blew off half way up the motorway and the car kicked into life (still not perfect but definitely better). Drove it to Mallusk and back in 3rd gear 60mph and that didn’t do much buti Think my dpf might be fooked!
Found a hardened, blocked pipe going from the DPF to a little valve/controller thing, so I replaced it with a bit of fuel pipe I had in the shed and with it fitted the car wouldnt pull your **** straight until it blew off half way up the motorway and the car kicked into life (still not perfect but definitely better). Drove it to Mallusk and back in 3rd gear 60mph and that didn’t do much buti Think my dpf might be fooked!
- Thread Starter
- #16
Here is where I am with this dose in chronological order.
-no fault codes on scan tool.
- replaced DPF pipes to pressure sensor, no difference.
- removed DPF and cleaned out with Wynns DPF cleaner. Refit. road test, better but not great.
- Hard to start next day, EMS light came on after 50miles-ish, low fuel pressure. Found diesel pishing out of injector no.2.
- carried out a leak off test. Injector 2 definitely iffy along with injector 1. Replaced both with secondhand injectors. put a couple of miles on them, no fuel pressure faults, starting fine, driving great under 30mph actually feels a bit more “boosty” at low speeds but no power after that.
- pulled the EGR out and cleaned it along with MAF sensor, no better.
-no active fault codes
heads now turned and I lost a bolt for the EGR in the depths of the engine bay , so im ready for a drink…and I don’t drink!
-no fault codes on scan tool.
- replaced DPF pipes to pressure sensor, no difference.
- removed DPF and cleaned out with Wynns DPF cleaner. Refit. road test, better but not great.
- Hard to start next day, EMS light came on after 50miles-ish, low fuel pressure. Found diesel pishing out of injector no.2.
- carried out a leak off test. Injector 2 definitely iffy along with injector 1. Replaced both with secondhand injectors. put a couple of miles on them, no fuel pressure faults, starting fine, driving great under 30mph actually feels a bit more “boosty” at low speeds but no power after that.
- pulled the EGR out and cleaned it along with MAF sensor, no better.
-no active fault codes
heads now turned and I lost a bolt for the EGR in the depths of the engine bay , so im ready for a drink…and I don’t drink!
- Thread Starter
- #18
how would one test this?
Calco
RMS Regular
- Messages
- 41
- Drives
- Octavia
Watch your live data and see the wastgate commanded percentage Vs actual percentage. Or give it full vacuum and see if it goes like stink. (Only joking) lol check the vacuum pipe too, iv had a few rub round the corner of the cylinder head above the gearbox, especially if the car has had work in that area
- Thread Starter
- #20
Excellent, I’ll give that a try tomorrow!
- Thread Starter
- #21
Todays journey.
Wastegate vacuum pipes fine.
Checked the operation of the wastegate, it seemed fine too. but need to maybe drive it and check the live data.
Changed the fuel filter, no difference.
Ripped out the airbox whilst trying to find a lost EGR bolt that’s vanished into the depths and found the loom running to the MAF sensor rubbed through and thought, well this has got to be It! Did a temp repair on the wiring loom and took it out a road test, no…..still ***** but now I have an EMS light on with a MAF fault! What would be the chances of the damaged wiring shorting out the MAF?
I'm very much at the point of just scrapping it as I’ve probably plowed £400 on potions, lotions, pipes, injectors etc plus I’m now going to have try a MAF sensor… so we’re getting to half the value of the car which is fine but it literally feels like I’m doing this every 3months.
Wastegate vacuum pipes fine.
Checked the operation of the wastegate, it seemed fine too. but need to maybe drive it and check the live data.
Changed the fuel filter, no difference.
Ripped out the airbox whilst trying to find a lost EGR bolt that’s vanished into the depths and found the loom running to the MAF sensor rubbed through and thought, well this has got to be It! Did a temp repair on the wiring loom and took it out a road test, no…..still ***** but now I have an EMS light on with a MAF fault! What would be the chances of the damaged wiring shorting out the MAF?
I'm very much at the point of just scrapping it as I’ve probably plowed £400 on potions, lotions, pipes, injectors etc plus I’m now going to have try a MAF sensor… so we’re getting to half the value of the car which is fine but it literally feels like I’m doing this every 3months.
- Thread Starter
- #22
Just to keep this going. Last week I pulled the DPF and got a friend to gut it for me as the engine was pushing oil past the came cover seal, so I assumed she the DPF was blocked and the engine was getting pressurised….or something like that!
Now I’ve got a little bit more power back!
But it smokes hard and is still down on power between 40-75mph. Under and over that, it pulls nicely!
After a week of driving, I have no engine management lights on etc, which I’d assume would happen with the DPF removed.
so do I put a turbo on it and hope for the best? Or scrap it and buy a new daily? I really hate the sight of the smoke belting out of it.
Now I’ve got a little bit more power back!
But it smokes hard and is still down on power between 40-75mph. Under and over that, it pulls nicely!
After a week of driving, I have no engine management lights on etc, which I’d assume would happen with the DPF removed.
so do I put a turbo on it and hope for the best? Or scrap it and buy a new daily? I really hate the sight of the smoke belting out of it.
- Thread Starter
- #24
Not yet, that’s why I’m very surprised I haven’t had any warnings or limp mode issues.
You really need to get a diagnostic scanner on it and read some live data.
Black smoke would signal not enough air into the engine, or bad injectors.
However, the car thinks it’s getting air, or else it wouldn’t put the fuel in.
That would signal a leak after the MAF sensor, and probably after the turbo, so split intercooler or pipework. But then again, the MAP pressure should detect low pressure and reduce the fuelling.
So possibly faulty MAF or MAP, combination of a few things, stuck turbo actuator etc.
Coolant temperature sensor can do similar, thinks the air is colder, so more dense, so more fuel is added. This will not through a fault normally, but is easy to see in live data.
As above, You need to log the engine data, especially requested and actual values to try and understand what’s happening,
Sometimes it’s cheaper to pay someone to look at it, rather than just throw parts at it, based on replies from a forum. Especially from eejits like me.
