Gaz86's 1994 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo II RS

[EF Ian]

The Datsun will be done entirely using the Novol Classic car range,

I can recommend Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 for your cavities. Been testing it for a year now on a bare blasted piece of steel, coated in Dynax and hung outside fully exposed, not even a hint of rust, even lying on the ground for the last month or so aftet the steel wire that was hanging it rusted out and broke. Used it in the civic and will be loading the Datsun cavities with it.

 

[Gaz86]

The Datsun will be done entirely using the Novol Classic car range,

I can recommend Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 for your cavities. Been testing it for a year now on a bare blasted piece of steel, coated in Dynax and hung outside fully exposed, not even a hint of rust, even lying on the ground for the last month or so aftet the steel wire that was hanging it rusted out and broke. Used it in the civic and will be loading the Datsun cavities with it.

That's exactly what I'm planning on using too and Dynax S-50 is also on the list

 

[Gaz86]

Spent the day stripping the engine bay. Removed the fuel and brake lines, probably should've done that while the car was on the ramps, it was a bit of a pain to do on the floor but got there in the end. They seem to be in pretty good condition with only minor corrosion in a couple of places. Any suggestions as to how best restore these?

Further progress was hampered by my lack of a deep drive socket set so couldn't get the brake booster off. Ordered a set off Amazon which should be here ok Monday. Once that's off I'll wrap the loom and get the paint stripped off the bay in preparation for the Bonda zinc primer. Meanwhile I got stuck into stripping the front drives side wheel arch back to bare steel. All in great condition in there The steel looks like new.

 

[EF Ian]

Perhaps best to replace brake and fuel lines anyway whilst easy to do? Depends on how they look.


Not trying to be a ****, but I would be much happier not using the Bonda primer, I'd be wanting to go straight to a quality Novol epoxy primer, the rest of the layers that follow are only as good as the base layer, I never skimp on my bare metal base layer epoxy. The bonda stuff is kind of cheap and more based towards home and garden DIY work. You shouldn't be applying anything with rust on it anyway. Just from my experience from working with paints and steel and rust and restoration for a long time, also what Dave at Restoshack reccomends.

 

[Gaz86]

Perhaps best to replace brake and fuel lines anyway whilst easy to do? Depends on how they look.


Not trying to be a ****, but I would be much happier not using the Bonda primer, I'd be wanting to go straight to a quality Novol epoxy primer, the rest of the layers that follow are only as good as the base layer, I never skimp on my bare metal base layer epoxy. The bonda stuff is kind of cheap and more based towards home and garden DIY work. You shouldn't be applying anything with rust on it anyway. Just from my experience from working with paints and steel and rust and restoration for a long time, also what Dave at Restoshack reccomends.

I'll more than likely have fresh ones made from kunifer.

As for the Bonda you're kidding right? It's not cheap and well liked with many restoration guys. It cost the same as my Novol epoxy primer. It's not like other ordinary zinc primers that are only intended as a temporary layer of protection. It's non-porous unlike others. Sorry to disagree but I have no problems using it. It bonds very well and leaves a nice finish. I'm not sure what you mean applying anything with rust on it? Anything I've seen with surface rust has been wired wheeled back to clean bare steel, anything else has been cut out. You're entitled to your opinion, as am I.

 

[svensktoppen]

Was going to say the same. If you've gone this far you might as well replace all brake/fuel lines, hoses and pipes, etc., with everything apart anyway and easy access.

 

[EF Ian]

I must have been looking at different primer than the one you are using.

I'm not sure what you mean applying anything with rust on it? Anything I've seen with surface rust has been wired wheeled back to clean bare steel, anything else has been cut out

Thats exactly what I mean, its not being applied over rust, only clean metal.

 

[Gaz86]

Was going to say the same. If you've gone this far you might as well replace all brake/fuel lines, hoses and pipes, etc., with everything apart anyway and easy access.

I have a guy in mind who's a dab hand at brake lines. Fello forum member too

I must have been looking at different primer than the one you are using.


Thats exactly what I mean, its not being applied over rust, only clean metal.

I think you may be. Pretty sure I paid about £50 or thereabouts for a couple of litres of this stuff which actually makes it dearer than the Novol stuff I just got. If it was marketed at the home/diy market I'm pretty sure I'd have come across it in the likes of B&Q lol It doesn't scratch off easily so it has bonded onto the metal well. It's resin based stuff. My only concern using it is that I have to wear a respirator and gloves whilst applying it, the fumes would choke you. It's not for novices. The only area I can't get into to remove any surface rust is the scuttle panel which I treated with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 to neutralise anything in there.

 

[EF Ian]

Yes, I was definitely looking at the wrong stuff then.

 

[Gaz86]

Nice clean bare steel ready for priming. A few tiny bits need a quick hit again with the wire wheel but otherwise good to be primed tomorrow morning.

 

[Nazor]

That wire wheel business is not fun. My back would be ballixed after an hour of doing it. Great to do it though for the car. Nice work dude.

 

[Gaz86]

That wire wheel business is not fun. My back would be ballixed after an hour of doing it. Great to do it though for the car. Nice work dude.

Far from it but needs must. Hoping to get most or all of the bay done tomorrow. Will see how I get on.

 

[svensktoppen]

You can do it

 

[Gaz86]

You can do it

Depends what time the Amazon guy turns up at to be honest. Really need to get the brake booster off to get the loom out of the way.

 

[Gaz86]

Front drivers side wheel arch and sill done Several coats were applied inside the wheel arch especially up at the top of the strut tower and only a single coat on the sill. I didn't get doing half the stuff that I had hoped to get done today. Energy levels were low and took a while to muster the will power to go out to the workshop.

The Amazon guy didn't show up with the socket set so I carried on with this. Everything back to bare steel and again happy to report that the sill only needs one patch where it meets the rear wheel arch. Again, Proton came to the rescue with a cut in perfect condition

I have been looking at what to finish off inside the wheel arches with and decided to go with either Novol STP Flex or STP Flow. Both give a very similar finish and appearance and can be oversprayed body colour.

 

[svensktoppen]

That Proton has certainly paid for itself

 

[Gaz86]

That Proton has certainly paid for itself

More than paid for itself. In fact I'm now quids in after selling some bits of it

 

[Ben P]

Spotted these on bakebook, may be of interest to you.

 

[svensktoppen]

Skip find?

 

[Gaz86]

Spotted these on bakebook, may be of interest to you.

View attachment 424439

Saw them but they'd only fit a 4 and upwards The earlies all have a 4x114.3 PCD.

 

[svensktoppen]

The biggest problem with almost every wheel I think is they don't clear big brakes without stupid offset when used on an Evo. Unfortunately the few that work without silly offset are also the most expensive. Hence so many Evos running wheels sticking out of the arches... Not sure where the Compomotive fit on that.

 

[Gaz86]

The biggest problem with almost every wheel I think is they don't clear big brakes without stupid offset when used on an Evo. Unfortunately the few that work without silly offset are also the most expensive. Hence so many Evos running wheels sticking out of the arches... Not sure where the Compomotive fit on that.

I can't fit Brembo's without doing a 5 stud conversion which is a total pain in the b@lls to do I'm told. I'll just be sticking with the standard Evo 2 calipers and put some nice discs and pads on it. I have new seals and pistons etc to go into them. Which reminds me I need to finish painting them lol I think I've only done the rears.

 

[Gaz86]

I took a notion this morning to check how many of these were left in the UK. Only 10 Evo II's currently taxed in the UK and 55 SORN'ed which could either mean they're sat stored away in a shed somewhere or they've been dismantled and broken for parts which is highly likely. There were almost 5 GSR's manufactured for every 1 RS model and given most RS's went into motorsports I'm curious just how many Evo II RS's are left.

 

[Nazor]

I’d say the RS is pretty much Hen’s Teeth going by that ratio. EvoII RS rally cars are bound to be thin on the ground too!

 

[Gaz86]

I’d say the RS is pretty much Hen’s Teeth going by that ratio. EvoII RS rally cars are bound to be thin on the ground too!

I have asked on the Evo 123 Owners Group but so far I've only heard from one other owner. I'm sure there are others but I can't see there being many.