Focus St2

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gsmith

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So spent 4 hours in the garage today. Decided to fit the discs and pads to the front myself and also fit the dsci induction kit. Engine bay needs a good clean as it hasn't been touched from it came back from the Bodyshop. Few wires need tided up but will sort that tomorrow and then take it for a drive tomorrow evening make sure all is good. Lower pipe seems to be touching the coolant pipe so might see if there's any adjustment in it. Was a ball ache job getting the airbox out hands cut of me but glad it's done. Think it'll look well with the White inlet I've ordered and coolant hoses then hoping to add some carbon.

 

Mackers91

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Getting the Airbox out is a pig of a job(n).

Wouldn't worry about the bottom pipe touching the coolent hose mine did exactly the same and I never had any problems with it. I am surprised to see you still have the sound symposer on the car. First thing I did was remove mine and blank it off. They can be gone to leak boost on mapped ST's.

Looks really well I'm in love with the wheels. Makes me want to go buy mine back :worried:
 

gsmith

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Yup @Chris Mac91 this is the second st I've done it on never again. Lol. Need to get a blanker as the top pipe has a second outlet on the back so want to sort that before I drive it. How much of a job is it to fit the symposer delete was something I wanted to do next.
 

Mackers91

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Yup @Chris Mac91 this is the second st I've done it on never again. Lol. Need to get a blanker as the top pipe has a second outlet on the back so want to sort that before I drive it. How much of a job is it to fit the symposer delete was something I wanted to do next.

Symposer delete is really easy takes about 20 mins to do. You'll need to buy a alloy blanking plug 35mm I believe is the size. Removing the symposer is very easy. Undo the jubilee clip on the hose that runs into the bottle of the symposer. Pull the symposer off its mounting bracket, disconnect the pipe off the top of the symposer. Then you can lift it out. The mounting bracket for it comes off with the 2 10mm bolts. That leaves you with the pipe that runs up into the scuttle panel. If you pull off the scuttle panel clips and lift it up then you can remove the two screws which hold the rest of the pipework in. Pull it out and that's you done. :grinning:
 

gsmith

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Next job then. Lol. I'll have a blast at it myself will annoy you if I face any issues. Lol. Would you recommend buying a branded delete plug or just any one?
 

gsmith

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Good man. Will order that up and then just need a jubilee clip? I see some people replace the hose with a silicone one take it I don't need that?
 

Mackers91

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No never had the inlet changed on mine. I was told by the guys at dreamscience that unless I was running a hybrid turbo it wasn't really needed and wouldn't really make any difference performance wise. Have heard stories of the standard plastic inlet cracking at high temperatures but my car made it round the Nurburgring with the standard one if it was going to fail I'm sure it would have then lol.
 

gsmith

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I bought it more for the look of it. :oops: Lol. But will help with the route Iam planning on going if I keep it for as long as I can the hybrid will be the route I'll go hopefully. Want to get all the Wee bits done now engine bay dressed etc then over winter if all goes to plan injectors turbo and whatever else it may need.
 

Mackers91

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I'd recommend getting a lower gearbox torque mount if you don't ready have one. I had a HardRace one on mine they make so much difference. Nice smooth gear changes and reduce axel tramp when you light the wheels up ;)
 

gsmith

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Another thing to add to the list. Lol. Did you ever change the recirc? I've a turbosmart 50/50 coming and sounds a ball ache to do.
 

Mackers91

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Another thing to add to the list. Lol. Did you ever change the recirc? I've a turbosmart 50/50 coming and sounds a ball ache to do.

Complete and utter pain in the ass to change. Done it on my driveway took me about 2 hours to undo the 3 hex heads that hold it in. Honest I've never came to close to pouring petrol over a car and sitting it alight.. :mad: You'll need a set of wobble hex bits if you don't already have them. They make it so much easier. Also make sure the out let for the recirc valve is pointing to the 12 o'clock position. Can give trouble otherwise.
 

gsmith

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Contemplating just throwing it round to Andrew at momentum to do it not sure after doing that induction kit not sure I can be annoyed with the recirc. Lol.
 

Mackers91

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I'd say that would be a good idea bud lol my neighbours were treated to every swear words in my vocabulary that day I did it. :p
 

gsmith

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Going to buy an anembo engine plate covers the rubbish finish of the top of the engine in front of the plastic engine cover. It's a billet cover can't decide on a colour actually really like the gold. Can have silver gloss black gold red or blue
 

gsmith

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@Chris Mac91 ordered that bung for the symposer delete today. Plan to start ordering some engine bay parts. Carbon header battery and fuse box cover. Strut brace and some anodised black engine bay caps. Also hoping to get my gunmetal st stripes fitted in the next few weeks.
 

gsmith

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Was thinking gloss black only thing is the engine cover and timing belt cover are being done gloss black want it to stand out and don't think I can do the engine cover any other colour.
 
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