My RB26 260Z Project

[Eager]

My black s14 had 420 horse and wouldnt spin the rears in dry in any gear, just rev'd out, dug in and took off. 265 wide rears though, stock diff too. If i stuck a 2way in it would not have gripped the same

 

[EF Ian]

It wouldn't have had 500Ftlbs though. I had planned on 275's on this with flares, but I think I'll just leave it how it is now. Just a pity they stopped making R1R's as they really are a superb tyre.

Surely a 2 way could only make it grip better? No chance of 1 wheels spinning up more than the other.

 

[s13rab]

It wouldn't have had 500Ftlbs though. I had planned on 275's on this with flares, but I think I'll just leave it how it is now. Just a pity they stopped making R1R's as they really are a superb tyre.

Surely a 2 way could only make it grip better? No chance of 1 wheels spinning up more than the other.

Have you ever drove a car with a two way diff lol one of the 180's had one it was ridiculous it was standard bar an exhaust and 3rd gear you could easily fill the road now I'm not saying they are all like this but it certainly was , it was a cusco from memory saying that it was cusco coilovers all rose jointed and was hard as a Rock so maybe with softer suspension it wouldn't have been so bad ?

 

[EF Ian]

Yes, I have, but not in anger. Unless I'm mistaken a two way diff will perform exactly the same as a 1.5 way diff (assuming both are same make and both clutch type) they will both lock the same under acceleration however the two way will also lock just as hard under braking whereas the 1.5 way will only be partially locked under breaking.

IMO an LSD will not cause less traction than not having one.

 

[Phil_EK9]

Yes, I have, but not in anger. Unless I'm mistaken a two way diff will perform exactly the same as a 1.5 way diff (assuming both are same make and both clutch type) they will both lock the same under acceleration however the two way will also lock just as hard under braking whereas the 1.5 way will only be partially locked under breaking.

IMO an LSD will not cause less traction than not having one.

Depends how much lock it has more than its operation. A lot of the aftermarket nissan 2 ways are usually setup for drifting and are a lot more aggressive in how they work.

 

[EF Ian]

Totally correct, it about how they are setup. Not if its 2, 1.5 or 1 way.

I picked my CLSD because it smooth and progressive locking and has reasonably low preload so it nice for street driving while still being able lock 100% load.

 

[svensktoppen]

...

 

[svensktoppen]

In general, an LSD will result in more traction than an open diff, but will still allow some "slip" for cornering (hence the name). A locked diff will allow no slip at all - great in a straight line, useless in corners (unless generation of smoke is the goal! ). An open diff will allow a lot more "slip" than an LSD, is cheaper and much simpler, but will loose traction once a single wheel spins up.

LSD come in many different guises, all with their own properties and quirks. And, as above, the degree of "slip" is important. Less means a lot of smoke in corners, if that is the goal More means better traction out of corners - to a point, until it becomes too open and starts spinning a wheel.

 

[Eager]

It wouldn't have had 500Ftlbs though. I had planned on 275's on this with flares, but I think I'll just leave it how it is now. Just a pity they stopped making R1R's as they really are a superb tyre.

Surely a 2 way could only make it grip better? No chance of 1 wheels spinning up more than the other.

In that car any other aftermarket diff would def have caused it to break traction. The stock one was just soft enough yet didn't unload onto one wheel. I have had a brave few different brands of diffs now and also wrecked a cusco one. I like nismo ones to be fair.

 

[EF Ian]

Got the exhaust polished up the other day:

I have a replacement mount bush on the way from America however I likely won't use it, I managed to find a company in the UK who can custom make me poly bushes to my size and spec with proper internal reinforcement so it won't fall apart like the ones from America do. Also since they can make them any size I want it means I can get a thicker one made for the engine side to do away with the alloy spacer I've been running. Hopefully they will be able to make them early next week.

 

[chrisd1]

noooooooo

 

[EF Ian]

With the part broken poly mount I can only drive this gently, which is very hard as its so much fun putting your foot down. My new custom stronger mounts should be made next Tuesday and be with me by Thursday for immediate fitting. Can't wait drive this properly again, its sooo much fun. Will be heading to AI Autosport end of next week to take care of a few small issues, which are much easier dealt with on a lift. I've had enough of lying cramped under the car in the rain on my drive this week.

Only problem with this car is I think its going to get me into trouble.

 

[andy.]

I'll admit now that Iit seems the heat from the exhaust is the likely cause of my issue and there was perhaps nothing that could have been done to prevent this.

How are you going to stop this from reoccurring? There are lots of ways some of which might not fit in with your build.

Heat wrap, ceramic coating, gold heat wrap for the affected area, or you could fabricate a heat shield.

 

[Paul RS]

I'll admit now that I was wrong, it seems the heat from the exhaust is the likely cause of my issue and there was perhaps nothing that could have been done to prevent this, this is me apologising for any mistakes I made or any problems I've caused. I've put so much into this build over the last two years that I tend to get a bit too emotional about it.

http://www.thermotec.com/products/13500-adhesive-backed-heat-barrier.html on the bodywork and think about ceramic coating the exhaust manifold and downpipe or make some for of heatshield up.

 

[EF Ian]

Not sure it will be a problem again, the damage may have been done on the dyno as even though for a dyno the airflow was very good, there will still be less than when actually driving and the fan was turned off whenever we stopped running the engine.


Look back at my build, the manifolds and turbo elbows are ceramic coated and my downpipes are heat wrapped. Also anywhere the exhaust is close to the car is gold wrapped. That's about as much heat management as I can do. I could always put a heat barrier like Paul RS posted above on there, but its going to look very wrong on a build like mine.

I have a feeling that the filler is the problem and without a filler it may be ok which is why I only gold wrapped the area that you can't really see.

 

[Hel]

Great build fella credit to you

 

[svensktoppen]

I could always put a heat barrier like Paul RS posted above on there, but its going to look very wrong on a build like mine.

Know what you mean, just depends how frequently/long you think it will be sitting glowing red hot in there for your actual use. And the RR mapping is probably as bad as it will ever get. But might be worth sacrificing "looks" to make it work.

There are things that can be done, with heat barriers like Paul suggested, and/or some clever ducting to get air where it needs to be (and out again!). Quickly becomes "industrial" though.

Will always be a heck of a lot of heat from a big turbo like that at full whack, bound to be little things like this cropping up. Not the end of the world, just part of a build like this.

 

[EF Ian]

Know what you mean, just depends how frequently/long you think it will be sitting glowing red hot in there for your actual use

Sitting glowing red hot, not that likely as I'd always drive gently after a hooning session to let it cool down before stopping. Likely to glow red hot when moving with high revs but as I'm moving it may not be a problem.

There are things that can be done, with heat barriers like Paul suggested, and/or some clever ducting to get air where it needs to be (and out again!). Quickly becomes "industrial" though.

That's why the R34 GTR added a nacca duct in the bonnet just in front of the rear turbo, but I really couldn't bring myself to do this to the Datsun.

 

[EP3 James]

love this lol

 

[marcusplowman]

Awesome work Ian

 

[EF Ian]

Been working my way through the little jobs that needed done to complete this. It was up with AI Autosport for a few days to sort some jobs like a brake skim and sorting some minor oil leaks. Thought we had got the leak but unfortunately it still seems to have a leak around the sump somewhere, but its hard to find exactly where its coming from a the oil spreads everywhere when driving.

Also finally got my broken mount bush replaced, hopefully this stronger one lasts:

Spent two days detailing her, clay, two stage polish, sealant and wax, looks great but I haven't got any good photos yet. I finally got my speedo working yesterday and set it with a GPS so its spot on accurate. Left it with the auto electrician today in the hope he can get my indicators working again so its MOT ready.

My custom plaque arrived, its not quite as nice as I'd like but it will for now.

Goes here:

Looks good fitted imo, just on with blu-tack here, will get it riveted on properly.

I'm hoping the weather is good on Saturday for some proper photos.

 

[S2K-Aaron]

Looks ace mate very nice build.

Should there be a comma after Motor Co. on that wee plate?

 

[Woodcutter]

Fantastic attention to detail with that plaque etc.

Hope you find the oil leak soon...not nice having that expensive CFS 10w50 leaking out!

 

[svensktoppen]

Should there be a comma after Motor Co. on that wee plate?

Yes, it should

Spoilsport

 

[svensktoppen]

Have been chasing a tiny but stubborn oil leak on the Hondus for a year now. If it were not for the undertray catching the oil, I would not even notice. Engines are oily, top it up every now and then and keep driving. Life is too short, just have fun with the car