ace275's Subaru Legacy JDM Twinscroll Manual
- Thread starter ace275
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SoobyDoobyDo
RMS Regular
I just joined to say this thread is brilliant! Car is beautiful, and good on you for painting that rear wing yourself-turned out excellent. I actually found your thread because I just recently sourced some rear aluminum exhaust finishers and I wanted to see what they’d look like on the car (mines also RBP). Need to swap out the exhaust for dual tips first, I still have the oem single tip. I also have an option grill I need to paint (along with power folding mirrors and spats to come) but I’m hesitant to order paint from an online vendor (I’m in US but after seeing your results would order from Omagh on EBay in a heartbeat) due to worrying about it matching properly. Also appreciate the tip about painting the rear sway bar-I’ve got one from whiteline as well (still new in the package) that I was wanting to powder coat, but I think POR15 is a nice alternative. Any other plans for the car? Cheers!
- Thread Starter
- #78
Welcome to the forum @SoobyDoobyDo and thanks for the comments on the car! Is yours a JDM 2.0 or a GT 2.5? We didn't get a turbo legacy at all here in the UK, but did get the 3.0 EZ30R.
Mine does have the folding mirrors, though I'd much prefer they automatically folded when you lock the car, but they're switch operated only. I fitted K2 Gear backboxes to this car as I think it suits the twin tips more than the usual huge jap cans, and they're also separate trim pieces so you can adjust how much they stick out if you want them a bit more obvious, or more discreet.
I believe POR15 comes from the states? It's got to be the most durable paint I've used and dries very smooth and glossy, great stuff! The whiteline stuff although good has pretty poor paint.
I still have to wet sand and polish up the spoiler but I thought I'd leave it at least a week for the paint to harden and any sinking to happen. The place in Omagh is a car paint shop, I presume you have places in the states that can mix it up for you in an aerosol?
Further plans (Not all definitely going to happen, but things I'd at least like to do):
-WR Limited Interior
-Lower 20-30mm
-Stronger bottom end for more power, aiming for 400hp+
SoobyDoobyDo
RMS Regular
Mines a 2.5 auto…
but, it’s a compromise as the wife can’t drive a stick, so I’ll happily take the car as an auto to be able to own it. It’s still pretty fun even in stock form. Would like a little more power, but I’m also torn because I’m only the 2nd owner and it’s in such nice shape I don’t want to ruin it by heavily modifying it. My motto for cars now is mostly “restore and preserve”.
A lot of folks in the US swap out the vf40 turbo that comes with it for the vf52 off the 08+ WRX. With a decent tune it’s a solid turbo that gets close to 300bhp with stock injectors and fuel pump. Has good power range throughout the power band. My goal would be around that, plus a transmission tune to give it quicker shifts. I’ve got paddle shifters out of an 08+, so that’d be a nice uograde to add to the interior.
I like having the option to fold the mirrors, but I understand if they were auto, it’d feel a little more like a higher-end luxury car. A friend has some nice mufflers for me-just need to get dual tips for them. I could bring in some sti mufflers, but for the price of bringing them in from Japan, for a little more I can buy an entire exhaust system in stainless steel. Plus, it’d look a little funny since the U.S. bumper is a little longer than the JDM.
I’ve used por15 on some of my other projects, good stuff! Also cheaper than powder coating the sway bar.
I do have some paint places, think I’ve found one I’m going to try. Some other folks on legacygt.con have tried it and had good results, so I’ll start there. They also have kits with primer and clear, so it’ll be easier to just buy everything in one shot and have it all ready to go.
That interior would look fantastic on the car…it’s hard for me not to want to bring in a JDM interior with the leather and suede (mines all leather now), but it’d be at least $1-2k in shipping alone…that’s too much for me to spend on an interior for an 18yo car. I agree with the suspension, I’d like to update mine and lower it just a bit, that sounds like a nice mix of looks and performance without making it ride too harsh. Can you elaborate on the bottom end? With the 2.5, i‘ce got the Sti bottom end, so it’s got forged internals, good for about 400.
Ps-sorry for the long posts, I tend to write a lot…lol
but, it’s a compromise as the wife can’t drive a stick, so I’ll happily take the car as an auto to be able to own it. It’s still pretty fun even in stock form. Would like a little more power, but I’m also torn because I’m only the 2nd owner and it’s in such nice shape I don’t want to ruin it by heavily modifying it. My motto for cars now is mostly “restore and preserve”.A lot of folks in the US swap out the vf40 turbo that comes with it for the vf52 off the 08+ WRX. With a decent tune it’s a solid turbo that gets close to 300bhp with stock injectors and fuel pump. Has good power range throughout the power band. My goal would be around that, plus a transmission tune to give it quicker shifts. I’ve got paddle shifters out of an 08+, so that’d be a nice uograde to add to the interior.
I like having the option to fold the mirrors, but I understand if they were auto, it’d feel a little more like a higher-end luxury car. A friend has some nice mufflers for me-just need to get dual tips for them. I could bring in some sti mufflers, but for the price of bringing them in from Japan, for a little more I can buy an entire exhaust system in stainless steel. Plus, it’d look a little funny since the U.S. bumper is a little longer than the JDM.
I’ve used por15 on some of my other projects, good stuff! Also cheaper than powder coating the sway bar.
I do have some paint places, think I’ve found one I’m going to try. Some other folks on legacygt.con have tried it and had good results, so I’ll start there. They also have kits with primer and clear, so it’ll be easier to just buy everything in one shot and have it all ready to go.
That interior would look fantastic on the car…it’s hard for me not to want to bring in a JDM interior with the leather and suede (mines all leather now), but it’d be at least $1-2k in shipping alone…that’s too much for me to spend on an interior for an 18yo car. I agree with the suspension, I’d like to update mine and lower it just a bit, that sounds like a nice mix of looks and performance without making it ride too harsh. Can you elaborate on the bottom end? With the 2.5, i‘ce got the Sti bottom end, so it’s got forged internals, good for about 400.
Ps-sorry for the long posts, I tend to write a lot…lol
- Thread Starter
- #80
Mines a 2.5 auto…
A lot of folks in the US swap out the vf40 turbo that comes with it for the vf52 off the 08+ WRX. With a decent tune it’s a solid turbo that gets close to 300bhp with stock injectors and fuel pump. Has good power range throughout the power band. My goal would be around that, plus a transmission tune to give it quicker shifts. I’ve got paddle shifters out of an 08+, so that’d be a nice uograde to add to the interior.
I like having the option to fold the mirrors, but I understand if they were auto, it’d feel a little more like a higher-end luxury car. A friend has some nice mufflers for me-just need to get dual tips for them. I could bring in some sti mufflers, but for the price of bringing them in from Japan, for a little more I can buy an entire exhaust system in stainless steel. Plus, it’d look a little funny since the U.S. bumper is a little longer than the JDM.
I’ve used por15 on some of my other projects, good stuff! Also cheaper than powder coating the sway bar.
I do have some paint places, think I’ve found one I’m going to try. Some other folks on legacygt.con have tried it and had good results, so I’ll start there. They also have kits with primer and clear, so it’ll be easier to just buy everything in one shot and have it all ready to go.
That interior would look fantastic on the car…it’s hard for me not to want to bring in a JDM interior with the leather and suede (mines all leather now), but it’d be at least $1-2k in shipping alone…that’s too much for me to spend on an interior for an 18yo car. I agree with the suspension, I’d like to update mine and lower it just a bit, that sounds like a nice mix of looks and performance without making it ride too harsh. Can you elaborate on the bottom end? With the 2.5, i‘ce got the Sti bottom end, so it’s got forged internals, good for about 400.
Ps-sorry for the long posts, I tend to write a lot…lol
Most here are autos too, I held out for a 6MT for the stronger gearbox. I believe mine should be either a VF44 or VF45, but unsure how the specs compare with a US VF40 turbo.
I'd hope POR15 is cheaper over there! Last time I bought a 1 Quart (946ml) tin, it was £65 (About $80) but a little goes a long way with it.
The bottom end/short motor I'd maybe be looking at is an N14 thick wall. £2000 brand new and is happy over 400bhp
I wasn't aware the US cars had a strong bottom end, the JDM ones are only good to 330hp or so
- Thread Starter
- #81
After waiting a week or so for the paint to cure, I gave the replacement spoiler a polish up using 1500 grit, 2000grit, Fast cut compound, lighter compound, then on to polish for a good shine and finally a coat of Bilt Hamber double speed for protection. There's some sanding marks I haven't fully removed, but they're very minor and you'd struggle to see them in anything but strong sunlight.
I then removed the existing spoiler, which completely fell apart. It's gone really brittle, which explains why it cracked so easily. Likely years of heat in Japan has done the damage.
And finally, new spoiler on and its a very good match!
I then removed the existing spoiler, which completely fell apart. It's gone really brittle, which explains why it cracked so easily. Likely years of heat in Japan has done the damage.
And finally, new spoiler on and its a very good match!
- Thread Starter
- #84
You can spray mine next
Bumper and bonnet here for you too
I'm definitely wanting to build a spray booth when I next move house, it's not too difficult, just a bit time consuming. But currently I have no compressor anymore for proper paint, and nowhere dust free to paint either!
Gambit
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that came out very well!
keep the led brakelight of the old one....type of thing you'll never be able to find a replacement if needed
keep the led brakelight of the old one....type of thing you'll never be able to find a replacement if needed
- Thread Starter
- #86
SoobyDoobyDo
RMS Regular
That’s spot on, nicely done!
- Thread Starter
- #88
Small details, I removed the 13x7 plates to fit 12x6 plates as I always thought the larger ones just looked a bit too big.
I'm also considering a front spoiler/splitter. I found a comparison that's the same colour / Spec B Front end. I do like the splitter, but with the rest of the car not having similar parts, maybe it looks a little out of place?
(Not my car in these pics)
I'm also considering a front spoiler/splitter. I found a comparison that's the same colour / Spec B Front end. I do like the splitter, but with the rest of the car not having similar parts, maybe it looks a little out of place?
(Not my car in these pics)
svensktoppen
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Nice to keep jap style plates, part of the history of the car. Smaller ones do look better.
Splitter, you know the deal. Look great right up to where you run into the first speed hump
Yours isn't too low, might be ok. But you never know, especially with that protruding lip.
Could do with a diffuser at the back though
That's the other problem - once you start there is literally no end to it 
Splitter, you know the deal. Look great right up to where you run into the first speed hump
Yours isn't too low, might be ok. But you never know, especially with that protruding lip.Could do with a diffuser at the back though
That's the other problem - once you start there is literally no end to it Gambit
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They look brilliant with the front splitter on them, helps side profile on them without the need to lower them I think get it bought
get it boughtSoobyDoobyDo
RMS Regular
Trouble is, RBP with black tends to blend together…if it weren’t for the sti badge on the JDM splitter, I’d probably paint to match.I got one (Sti front splitter) with my JDM bumper that has yet to go on. I say don’t paint it, keep it as is, just to preserve the authenticity. It also protrudes enough to present itself in a way that says it’s there without being obnoxious, it was well designed. I’ve also got a splitter for my US-spec bumper that’s an aftermarket unit-I’ve thought about painting this one to match to see what it looks like. If the car were white, or just about any other color, it’d be a no-brainer to keep it black though. But with this color you wonder...really one of the only downfalls with this color….
svensktoppen
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It's not an sti car anyway though so does that sticker really matter? Unless those splitters are worth a fortune or something? That splitter body colour would look great. But I officially have no taste at all
SoobyDoobyDo
RMS Regular
Sti stuff is pricey…but personally, I also like keeping things as they are. I have a friend who also has a bp5 wagon and he’s got a sti s402 carbon fiber splitter that came with a bumper…think he paid at least $1k alone for the bumper? Idk it was a lot, plus shipping from Japan…I’ve seen s402 fenders on JPN auctions for $2300.It's not an sti car anyway though so does that sticker really matter? Unless those splitters are worth a fortune or something? That splitter body colour would look great. But I officially have no taste at all
- Thread Starter
- #95
Thanks, I think the tech tutor last Tuesday was implying it must have had a set of replacement rear arms as they were quite new, but it's that good throughout. Had a few inspected in Japan but placed the request to buy as soon as I got the images of the underside back from this one. Shame the underseal is black, would be nice to see the floor.
- Thread Starter
- #96
Replacement Dashboard collected last week as the current one has cracks all over it from years in the hot sun. It needs a very small repair but nothing major. (Vinyl putty on order)
Excuse the state of the shed. It's chaos currently
I also got a set of 17" WORK wheels with winter tyres for the upcoming colder months. Not really a fan of black, but they'll do. Shame I just missed Bodyworx's refurb offer or they'd be getting refinished.
Test fitted them with the 5mm spacers but the caliper to spoke clearance is just a little too tight for my liking (Around 1mm) so I'd like to try a 6mm or 7mm spacer, which has now taken me into extended wheel studs territory. Bollocks. Better not risking it though and just getting them in.
Excuse the state of the shed. It's chaos currently
I also got a set of 17" WORK wheels with winter tyres for the upcoming colder months. Not really a fan of black, but they'll do. Shame I just missed Bodyworx's refurb offer or they'd be getting refinished.
Test fitted them with the 5mm spacers but the caliper to spoke clearance is just a little too tight for my liking (Around 1mm) so I'd like to try a 6mm or 7mm spacer, which has now taken me into extended wheel studs territory. Bollocks. Better not risking it though and just getting them in.
svensktoppen
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Bit tight under that wheel, lol.
Clean garage = nobody ever does any actual work
Clean garage = nobody ever does any actual work
SoobyDoobyDo
RMS Regular
Albert Einstein said if a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, what does that say about an empty desk? That looks way better than my garage!Clean garage = nobody ever does any actual work
Looking forward to seeing the repair work- my dash is still in excellent shape but there are two small spots that need repaired as well. What is the offset on the wheels? That’s a little too close for comfort…
- Thread Starter
- #99
Black Work winter wheels have now been refurbished in Lamborghini Imola Bronze (Satin) via @Boydie by Polished Alloys
Should suit the car alot better than black, and a nice change from the summer wheels in Silver
Not quite as good a finish as I had from Bodyworx on the Rays wheels, but they're not far off and they're still a really good job and the best I've had from them, happy with the outcome.
Just need to fit extended studs and bigger spacers for these to clear the front calipers
Should suit the car alot better than black, and a nice change from the summer wheels in Silver
Not quite as good a finish as I had from Bodyworx on the Rays wheels, but they're not far off and they're still a really good job and the best I've had from them, happy with the outcome.
Just need to fit extended studs and bigger spacers for these to clear the front calipers
- Thread Starter
- #100
Started fitted the ARP Extended wheel studs. I used the ARP 100-7729 set marketed towards the GT86/BRZ/FRS which is a direct fit to Subaru cars, but not far too long like the direct Subaru options. I was at the very limit of threads I'm comfortable with on 5mm spacers and the new wheels require a 6-7mm spacer, so this brings me back into having loads of turns on the wheel nuts.
The front drivers wheel was easy enough, however the OEM wheel nuts don't fit anymore and I only brought 5 open ended nuts (Incase the OEM ones did fit) so the other side will have to wait until next week.
One old stud left in for comparison.
Unsure whether to leave small open ended nuts on and leave the studs exposed, or to get extended closed nuts. They shouldn't corrode so it's just an aesthetic thing really.
I also replaced the yellowish sidelight bulbs with white LED ones to better match in the color of the OEM HID headlights. One new and one old in this picture, but not a great angle.
Looking forward to getting the winter wheels on soon and seeing how they fit.
Opinions welcome on whether to keep the open ended nuts on, or get extended closed end wheel nuts.
The front drivers wheel was easy enough, however the OEM wheel nuts don't fit anymore and I only brought 5 open ended nuts (Incase the OEM ones did fit) so the other side will have to wait until next week.
One old stud left in for comparison.
Unsure whether to leave small open ended nuts on and leave the studs exposed, or to get extended closed nuts. They shouldn't corrode so it's just an aesthetic thing really.
I also replaced the yellowish sidelight bulbs with white LED ones to better match in the color of the OEM HID headlights. One new and one old in this picture, but not a great angle.
Looking forward to getting the winter wheels on soon and seeing how they fit.
Opinions welcome on whether to keep the open ended nuts on, or get extended closed end wheel nuts.